就这样走走又停停,欣赏一路美景后,终于在天黑前来到稻城香格里拉小镇
就这样走走又停停,欣赏一路美景后,终于在天黑前来到稻城香格里拉小镇,入住藏式大居四季莲花客栈;
香格里拉镇是“中国香格里拉生态旅游区”的核心,“香格里拉之魂”,是拥有完美自然精致,浓郁康巴风情、优越生态环境与完美旅游服务设施的国际精品旅游小城镇,是稻城旅游的支撑点和稻城南部地区的中心镇。
小镇海拔约2800-2900米,是来亚丁住宿休息的最佳选择;来之前有朋友极力推荐我入住亚丁村,查了一下,亚丁村在海拔4000多,那是找罪受;我还是更喜欢这藏式风格浓郁的香格里拉小镇,和这镇上少有的真正保留了藏居风格的客栈;
中国有两个“香格里拉”!
一个是大家可能都有听过的云南香格里拉,原名中甸县;
一个是亚丁风景区所在位置——四川省稻城县香格里拉镇,原名日瓦乡;
其实提起稻城亚丁,最常出现的一个说法就是“最后的香格里拉”,“蓝色星球上的最后一片净土”;
而四季莲花客栈是对原来老式藏居保护性保留,又加上了客栈主人雪儿姐对莲花的喜爱,进到客栈,可以看到处处莲花的主题,而每一个莲花物价都是雪儿姐全国各地亲手淘来的;
客栈大厅保留一面藏居原木和泥土墙面,而客人居住的房间又全新修缮打造,舒软的大床,处处舒心。
藏居一层原都是放牛羊的,被改造成餐厅和陈列使用;
粗大结实的原木架在石头上做整个房子的支撑,被重新打磨抛光,露出原木古香;
客栈里的插花都是取自附近大地里的野花,自然风干,在莲花灯下似有幽香;
高原天黑的晚,我们入住香格里拉莲花客栈已经是晚上八点多,办好入住顿感饥饿;
网上找到镇上排名在前的桑吉林厨房,时间已近晚上九点,店里仍是人声鼎沸,正好有人离开空出一桌,赶紧抢着坐下;
莲花客栈的店长蓉姐推荐这里的青稞菜心汤,非常好吃,想想来时路上看到的盛开的油菜花,正好是吃菜心的时节,新鲜时令蔬菜,配本地青稞,清爽舒口;
桑吉林厨房的店长推荐了他们店老板自己研发的“日照金山”,是用青稞做的锅巴,然后浇上红红的浓汤,好看又好吃;
当然小炒牦牛肉、香格里拉当地种的时令油麦菜都是必点的;
两人把所有的菜吃了个精光,吃的开心,拉了小店长拍合影;
直到我们离开,已经是晚上十点,店里仍是人声鼎沸,还有食客刚来入座;
来稻城香格里拉,推荐小镇上的桑吉林厨房,还有很多其他特色菜,我们实在是吃不动了;
由于晚上吃的太多,特别是Paul,所以一起在小镇上散步,路过一家酒吧,Paul的眼就直了,吼吼,看到了店里的一位漂亮姑娘,转身就要出门时,Paul说这姑娘太漂亮了,我笑了,反问他,为什么不直接跟她说?当我和酒店老板娘聊天说起这事,老板娘也是热心肠子,就把那姑娘叫了过来;那姑娘也注意到了Paul,还以为Paul是来参加“天空之镜”的;两个现场像念台词,一个说对方太漂亮了,一个说对方很帅;
给两人合影时,我从没见过这个局促的Paul;Paul红了脸跟我说,他见到漂亮姑娘时就是紧张;
老板娘说这是镇上最漂亮的藏族姑娘,在亚丁上班;
我跟Paul翻译了,但估计他是兴奋紧张的没听进去,和姑娘互加微信小聊一会,然后say goodbye!
让我没想到的是Paul第二天临时改变了计划;
From Paul:
We drove to a small busy town called Yaijiang, about 1500m lower in altitude than KangDing. Upon arrival, I enjoyed a delicious bowl of local green noodle soup. We also tried Tibetan dough. We set off on a very long car drive from Yaijiang to Daocheng. On the way, we came across a horse racing festival in Litang, patronised by I’d say about 10,000 local Tibetan people. Litang is one the highest towns in the world with an altitude of 4600m. We enjoyed a local Tibetan lunch in a Tibetan tent with some Tibetan locals. We ate steamed dumplings with a chilli rub and drank local tea good for calming altitude effects. There was a very festive and warm energy inside the tent. The horse racing had just finished by the time we finished lunch, so we slowly followed the crowd over to the dance performance area. On the way, we were invited by a local family to sit down with them and picnic. We were offered some more local tea and home-made bread and cured beef. After about 45 minutes of waiting with the masses, the performance began, but it was not a dance - it was an traditional eating competition! Having stayed about 2 hours longer than expected, we left the festival just as it started to rain. We drove through stunning scenery, similar to the dramatic set of Lord of the Rings, to Daocheng, a charming little mountain town. We ate dinner at a chalet-style Chinese restaurant where the food was unique, the service top-notch and so was the conversation with Gaven about Confucius philosophy and how continues to influence Chinese people today.
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